Panerai

The Radiomir was the very first Panerai watch. The company began producing models for the Italian Navy all the way back in 1936. Its name comes from the luminous material patented by Panerai in 1916. This material is based on radium, a radioactive element.

This timepiece's design has changed very little since its introduction. It still has a cushion-shaped case, tidy dial, two hands, and luminous indices and numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. Most models come with a "sandwich" dial, i.e., a dial with two layers. The manufacturer cuts the numbers and indices out of the top layer and then places it over the lower layer, which is coated with luminous material. The result lends these timepieces a stunning sense of depth.

The different models range from 42 to 49 mm in diameter. Most have a stainless steel case; however, the manufacturer also offers a few Radomir timepieces in rose gold or black ceramic. The collection is also home to a few different dial designs, including the popular "California" dial. This dial type has hours marked by Roman numerals on its upper half and Arabic numerals on the lower half. Then there's the Radiomir S.L.C., which does without numerals altogether. Instead, it uses dot and line indices to mark the hours.

Panerai has added several more dial varieties in recent years. The collection has included models with green dials since 2017. There are also versions with blue or brown dials. Among the latter group, you'll find the Radiomir Venti. The manufacturer launched this model in 2020 to celebrate 20 years since the foundation of the online "Paneristi" community. The Radiomir Eilean followed in 2021. This watch also has a brown dial but features a vertical teak pattern reminiscent of the deck on the yacht "Eilean." Built in 1936, Panerai helped restore the "Eilean" and get it back in working order in 2006.

The collection is also home to watches with small seconds, power reserve indicators, or GMT functions. The top model is the Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Tourbillon GMT. Panerai only produces this 49-mm rose gold watch upon request. It displays the time in two time zones using a central set of hands. By pressing the push-piece at 8 o'clock, the watch will acoustically relay the time in either time zone. Sapphire crystal on both the front and back offers a view of the intricately skeletonized in-house caliber P.2005/MR at work. Officially, this timepiece sells for 400,000 USD.

Entry-level models, such as the Radiomir Base Logo and Radiomir Black Seal Logo, sell for 4,000 to 4,400 USD. Collector's items like the Venti or Eilean will set you back roughly 7,900 USD. If you'd prefer a watch with a second time zone, be prepared to spend anywhere from 9,200 to 12,500 USD. Prices for a Radiomir with a gold case fall between 10,000 and 17,000 USD.

The Luminor collection is an evolution of the Radiomir. Both models share a cushion-shaped case and a clean sandwich dial. The most noticeable difference is the massive crown-protecting bridge that guards the Luminor's crown against impacts and jolts. It also keeps the crown firmly pressed into the case, keeping water out of the delicate interior.

Stainless steel is the most prominent material in the Luminor collection. However, you'll also find models in rose gold, titanium, or ceramic. In recent years, Panerai has put a lot of time and effort into researching and developing materials, resulting in proprietary alloys like Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both are more durable than conventional precious-metal alloys. Other materials to arise out of Panerai's laboratories include Carbotech and Fibratech. These composites are made of carbon and basalt fibers, respectively, and are robust, corrosion-resistant, and up to 60% lighter than stainless steel. In spring 2021, the brand launched the Luminor Marina Steel with a case crafted from recycled steel.

Beyond the many materials, there is a wide array of complications to choose from. This includes models with a tourbillon and a second time zone in addition to a flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, or equation of time. There are even watches for lefties with the crown on the left-hand side.

Prices for a Panerai Luminor

Simple models like the Luminor Base Logo change hands for as little as 4,700 USD. More complex watches, such as the Luminor GMT Power Reserve with a second time zone and power reserve indicator or the Luminor 8 Days GMT with an impressive eight-day power reserve, cost between 8,900 and 12,000 USD. There's also the Luminor Equation of Time 8 Days GMT, which requires an investment of roughly 19,000 USD. For another 3,500 USD, you can call the Luminor Regatta Chrono Flyback your own.

You'll have to dig quite a bit deeper in your pockets for highly-complicated special editions like the Luminor L'Astronomo Tourbillon Moon Phase Equation of Time GMT. As its name implies, this timepiece boasts a second time zone, an equation of time function, a tourbillon, and a moon phase indicator that also shows sunrise and sunset times. Prices for this model begin around 248,000 USD.